While visiting my family in Ecuador for Christmas in December 2023 we had the incredible opportunity to visit Mashpi Lodge, a unique sanctuary of unparalleled beauty nestled deep in the Cloud Forest. Being Ecuadorian, I’ve had the privilege of exploring the Chocó-Andino region on many occasions, but my recent trip held a particularly special place in my heart. It’s truly astounding that Mashpi is just a few hours’ drive from Quito, yet it offers such a stark contrast to the bustling urban landscape of the capital city. The road to the lodge winds through the Sierra towards the coast, leading travellers into the heart of a dense cloud forest, enveloped in mist and teeming with wildlife. This convergence of climates creates a one-of-a-kind environment rich in biodiversity.

Mashpi is more than just a remarkable 5-star hotel built in an extraordinary setting; it acts as the central hub for conservation efforts aimed at preserving this unique habitat. The Mashpi Reserve’s research station hosts a variety of scientific studies, spanning a wide array of topics. Notably, these endeavours have led to the discovery of new species previously undocumented by science, including entirely new species of frog and orchid found exclusively in the region, a testament to its ecological significance.

Perched majestically atop a scenic plateau, Mashpi Lodge commands a breathtaking vista of forested mountains, a sight that stirs the soul. From the very moment of arrival, where refreshing beverages crafted from local herbs greet guests, it becomes abundantly clear that Mashpi transcends the mere notion of a lodge; rather, it stands as a sanctuary where nature, cultural heritage, and warm hospitality intertwine seamlessly.

Exemplifying architectural brilliance, Mashpi Lodge stands as a testament to sustainability and conservation. Erected upon the footprint of a former lumber mill, the lodge’s contemporary design and expansive floor-to-ceiling windows beckon the forest indoors, fostering a harmonious coexistence with its natural surroundings. At Mashpi, ecotourism is a way of life—a commitment to conservation and community empowerment. Through sustainable practices and indigenous wisdom, Mashpi Lodge strives to preserve fragile ecosystems and inspire future generations.

Mashpi’s famous ‘cock-of-the-rock’ cocktail
Andean slender mouse

Following a warm reception and a delicious lunch, a fusion of traditional Ecuadorian dishes with a modern twist, our exploration commenced with a guided stroll to the Life Centre, expertly led by our amazing local guide, Arcenio. Amidst the fluttering kaleidoscope of wings within the butterfly sanctuary, we bore witness to the Life Centre’s unwavering commitment to forest preservation, delving into the intricacies of the butterfly’s life cycle and the diverse array of flora and fauna endemic to the region. During our short walk we marvelled at a myriad of orchid and bromeliad species, while various bird species perched just a short distance from us on the viewing deck, punctuated by a visit from a curious Tayra, (a small mammal belonging to the weasel family), a delightful highlight of our first afternoon at Mashpi.

A Tayra at the life centre
Exploring the forest on the sky-bike

Every corner of Mashpi whispers of wonder and exploration. The open-air terraces with sweeping panoramic views serve as sanctuaries for introspection and communion with the forest. At dawn, bird-watchers can delight in the avian symphony, while at dusk, the terrace becomes a stage for nature’s enchanting nocturnal performance, as the forest comes to life under the golden hues of the setting sun. A viewing platform extends into the canopy offering panoramic views of the forest and a profound sense of connection with the natural world. With approximately 400 avian species sighted within its reserve, 35 of which are endemic to the region, Mashpi is truly a haven for bird enthusiasts.

The dining room at Mashpi is a spectacle unto itself. Illuminated by the soft glow of ambient lighting and adorned with towering two-story windows, it feels as though diners are enveloped within the very heart of the forest. Drawing inspiration from the rich tapestry of Ecuadorian cuisine, the chefs curate dishes sourced from the diverse bounty of the Andes and the Coast, providing guests with an authentic taste of both regions. From purple potatoes, roast pork and soul-warming soups to freshly caught seafood, each meal is a celebration of Ecuador’s culinary heritage. The sprawling breakfast buffet, a personal favourite of mine, offered an extensive selection of traditional Ecuadorian dishes, accompanied by refreshing juices crafted from local fruits, setting you up with good energy for a day of hiking and activities.

A remarkable dining experience

Furthermore, Mashpi offers a haven for rejuvenation at its Spa and Wellness centre. Nestled amidst lush foliage, guests are invited to immerse themselves in the tranquillity of the forest and indulge in restorative massages, invigorating yoga sessions, and holistic beauty treatments. Amidst the gentle rustle of leaves, the soothing patter of raindrops, and the melodic serenade of bird song, one cannot help but feel that nature is healing the soul.

Mashpi offers a diverse array of expeditions and guided walks tailored to suit every age and skill level. It’s an ideal destination for families, boasting engaging learning activities for children and a variety of forest hikes, as well as captivating nocturnal expeditions providing a unique opportunity to explore the forest after dark and witness elusive nocturnal creatures.

As dawn broke on our first morning, we set out on an excursion led by Arcenio. Descending along the steep mountain trail, we meandered through the ravine, tracing the path of the river, where we visited hidden waterfalls, bathed in crystalline pools and encountered an array of birds, reptiles, and insects. The children were delighted to encounter a fishing spider resting on the rocks, poised for its next prey! The culmination of our hike was a once-in-a-lifetime journey aboard the Dragonfly—a ski-lift style ride through the canopy. Suspended along a cable system, the open-air gondola afforded us a 360° view of the majestic Chocó cloud forest—a sight beyond words. Whether hiking, riding the Dragonfly, or observing the forest from the lodge, each activity offers new and different perspectives of life in the forest.

Mashpi on the BBC

Our visit to Mashpi coincided with the rainy season, though we were treated to a glorious sunset on our first evening. Nonetheless, the forest revealed its enchanting characteristics and shifting moods as the weather fluctuated. Bathed in golden sunlight at dusk or veiled in mist, the forest exuded a magical, mystical aura. The Mashpi team ensured that we were fully equipped for our journey, providing snacks, rain boots, walking sticks, bug repellent, and water-proof jackets. Each guest received a backpack and personalised water bottle while the hotel’s boutique offered any last-minute essentials.

The hummingbird garden offers delightful enjoyment for the entire family
A visitor during a nocturnal excursion

Later that afternoon, we ventured to the hummingbird garden, where a vibrant symphony of colour awaited us. These exquisite little birds flitted about, seemingly unfazed by our presence. As a lover of hummingbirds, this experience was an absolute dream come true for me, as I had never before witnessed such a diverse array of these birds so up close.

Amidst the mist and bright flowers, we were treated to visits from curious tayras, anteaters, and agoutis (medium-sized rodents, similar to the capybara) alongside various bird species like tanagers, underscoring the area’s remarkable biodiversity. Observing over seven species of hummingbirds, including a few rare sightings, left me utterly mesmerised—an undeniable testament to Mashpi’s natural splendour and the imperative of their conservation efforts. The hummingbird garden was so special to us that we chose to return on our final morning, relishing a few hours of solitude amidst its captivating beauty.

Long-tail sylph (female)
The Mashpi community

Reflecting on my time at Mashpi Lodge, I am struck by the profound impact of nature—the sense of connection and wonder that surpasses mere words. Stepping into the hummingbird garden was the realisation of a long-held dream, strengthening my connection and sense of pride in Ecuador’s abundant natural wonders.

I will forever cherish the warmth and kindness of the staff, whose friendly demeanour, sense of humour and eagerness to share the marvels of this breathtaking region left an indelible mark on me. Mashpi prioritises the employment of local people, thereby reinvesting in the communities, who serve as primary providers of agriculture, food products, and supplies used at the lodge. The guides, staff, and team of biologists exude an infectious enthusiasm, and I was fortunate to engage in many enriching conversations with them, delving into their stories, local wisdom, community dynamics, cultural heritage, and culinary traditions. Indeed, Mashpi owes much of its allure to these remarkable people.

This journey was an extraordinary experience that will forever hold a special place in my heart. Each return to Ecuador serves as a poignant reminder of my country’s countless treasures—the boundless creativity, warmth, and unwavering positivity of its people; the tantalising diversity of its gastronomy; the rich tapestry of its history, heritage, and culture; and the enchanting beauty of its four distinct regions. Despite its small size, Ecuador boasts an abundance of riches to share with locals and tourists alike.

As for Mashpi, I eagerly anticipate the day when I can once again visit the Chocó-Andino forest, eager to uncover even more of its captivating wonders.

The dragonfly glides through the forest canopy

Photos thanks to Mashpi Lodge and Metropolitan Touring
Hummingbird and butterfly photos by Kate Degel